Sunday, August 9, 2009

Lords and ladies

A presentation on medieval textile design
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Slide 1

Investigating the effects of power, status and wealth on textile design

  Dark Ages:400-1000

   Early Gothic 1000-1200

Late Gothic 1200-1400

  Renaissance 1450-1600


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Slide 2

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Imperial Ottoman silk velvet kaftan associated with Sultan Mahmet II, the Conquerer (1451-1481)


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Elephant silk C11 1st 1/2 

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Slide 3

Bayeux Tapestry

-Created shortly after Battle of Hastings

 and Norman conquest


-79 scenes accompanied by Latin 

Inscriptions & showing battle scenes


-600 figures, 700 animals with scenes 

of farming, cooking, feasting, boat-building, 

and hunting


-Many levels of society and is an excellent source for costume, furnishings and buildings


-260 feet long by 28 inches high


-Not a true tapestry – two kinds of embroidery 


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Slide 4

Decline in wealth and civilisation:  society is unstable

Most decorated textiles are  ecclesiastical 

Belief in the coming of Christ/end of the  world

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Slide 5: Effects of Crusade on textiles

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Left: Chuasuble, England, 1330-1380, Metropolitan Museum of Art


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Right: Chasuble of Archbishop Willingis of Mainz 1000-1100

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Slide 6

Growing personal wealth and the rise of ornamentation


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Madonna and Child Enthroned , 1396,  Museo Civico Correr, Venice


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Woven silk, Spain,  1300s

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Slide 7: Case Study: Venice
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Doge of Venice , 1457-1470s


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Sermon of Saint Steven , Carpaccio, 1540,  Louvre

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Slide 8: Venice and the east

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Sultan Mehmet II , Bellini,  1480, National Gallery of  London


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Sultan’s Favorite , from a costume  book, 1590

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Slide 9: Personal wealth, pattern, and fashion

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Ladies weaving, Flemish 1490

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Slide 10: Northern Europe - Fashion without pattern.  Imitation

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Slide 11: Patterns in Renaissance Textile

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Slide 12: Renaissance Motifs

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Slide 14: Case Study: The Hunt of the Unicorn, ca 1500

 Metropolitan Museum of Art, Cloisters Collection

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Slide 15: Tapestry

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The Triumph of Fame , 1502,  Metropolitan Museum of Art


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The Drowning of Britomartis


Saturday, August 8, 2009

Hunters and Gatherers

These are the images from my lecture on the origins of textile design and creation.  

Slide 1:Hunters, Gatherers & Accountants: developing an understanding of past civilizations in the production of textiles through the development of technologies

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Slide 2: Bronze Age Peoples

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Slide 3: Prehistoric civilisations

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Slide 4

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Oldest known garment,  from Tarkhan Egypt, ca  3,000 BC  


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Horizontal ground loom depicted on a bowl, ca 4,000 BC (below)

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Slide 5

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Model of a weaver’s workshop from Egyptian tomb. The women are spinning, plying, warping and weaving on a horizontal loom.  2,000 BC.  First pyramids were built c. 2681-2662 BC

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Slide 6


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1991-1786 BC depiction of Egyptian Aamu people.

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Slide 8
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A funerary tunic of Tutankhamun (1333-1323 BC)

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Slide 9
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Evidence of weaving technique-decoration of a Attic Greek lekythos 560BC

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Slide 10
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Warp weighted loom depicted on a skphos,  Greece, 4th  century BC 

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Slide 11
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A fragment of Greek linen, woven, c.  400 BC.  Fabric embroidered in a diamond pattern inset with lions.

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Slide 12


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Female costume from Denmark-early Bronze age c. 1500 BC.Basic shape, shirt has elaborate embroidery around the neck. This corded skirt has parallels with bronze figurines. Skirts with bronze tubing made a merry tinkling sound.

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Slide 13


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Detail of fine sewing on Huldremose woman’s cloak,  peplos-like dress found near Huldremose woman, and  reconstruction of other clothes found on or with bog  mummies, 400 BC-340 AD.

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Slide 14

Central Europe

Hallstatt culture: c.  700-500  BC

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Watercolours of textiles from C19 excavations

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Slide 16
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Southern Europe Silk and wool embroidery on hemp from southern Macedonia, were dyed in madder for red, carmine acid for scarlet and indigo/woad for blue/black and if mixed with yellow-green. Colour and pattern represents tastes that can be traced back to at least 400 BC.

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Precolombian cotton fabric  exhibiting different patterns and  weaves. 

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Detail of a fragment of Paracas  fabric of Camelid fibre from the  south coast of Peru, ca. 400-100  BC  The humanoid figures are  embroidered in cross knit  looping.

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Slide 18

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Detail of a Oaxacan pozahuanco illustrates the brilliance of murex purple.Cotton woven on a back strap loom. Also, indigo and insect-red cochineal. Used occasionally on animal fibres in 1BC then important cotton dye after C1500 AD.

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Slide 19

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Bright plumage secured with a cotton stitch. Peruvian Nazca 200BC -200 AD.