Owen Jones on the internets

The Textile Blog has a fantastic write up on Owen Jones' writings on Pacific designs. Do check it out!

Textile Design in the 20th Century: Design as Art

Slide 1: Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Bauhaus and Beyond...







Slide 2: Arts and Crafts: design meets philosophy 1880-1910
Simplicity and honest use of materials negate historicism


"Artichoke" wallpaper, by John Henry Dearle for William Morris & Co., circa 1897 (Victoria and Albert Museum).


“Kennet” printed cotton, by William Morris, circa 1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 3: Art Nouveau
Characterised by highly-stylised, flowing, curvilinear designs often incorporating floral and other plant-inspired motifs.







Slide 4: Art Nouveau in fashion

Evening dress, silk, House of Worth, 1898-1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dress, silk crepe embroidered with silk floss and ribbon, Jeanne Hallée, 1907, Metropolitan Museum of Art



Slide 5: Art Deco: Pure decoration, 1920-1939

Furnishing fabric, F Gregory Brown, 1922, linen, Victoria and Albert Museum


Printed silk-satin, Paul Poiret, 1911-1913, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 6: Art Deco in Fashion


Cyclone Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1939, silk, spangles Metropolitan Museum of Art


Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1924, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art


Fancy Dress Costume, 1911, Paul Poiret, Green silk gauze and gold lamé with blue foil appliqué and celluloid-bead embroidery, Metropolitan Museum of Ar

Slide 7: Bauhaus


Textile sample, wool, silk, cotton, cellophane, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum


Design for a tapestry, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum


Tri-color arch, hemp and synthetic fibre, Claire Zeisler, 1983-1984, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 8: Rayon and the rise of synthetic fibres

1940 – Nylon used in stockings as a replacement for silk


‘Utility’ dress, rayon, English, 1942, V and A

Dress fabric, screen printed silk and rayon blend, French, 1937, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 9: WWII, Rationing and Austerity

London Wall headscarf, printed rayon, Jacqmar, 1940s, Victoria and Albert Museum


Original No. 16 suit, wool, Digby Morton, 1942, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 10: The New Look in fabrics


Curtain, screen printed cotton crepe, Marian Mahler for David Whitehead Ltd, c. 1952, Victoria and Albert Museum


New Look dress, silk grosgrain, Victor Steibel, 1947, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 11: 1950’s: Prosperity and abundance


‘Lace’ printed cotton, 1950s, Design Collection at Bournemouth


Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum


Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 12: 1960s – Bright abstractions and ethnic inspiration


Furnishing fabric, indigo-dyed and block printed cotton, Susan Boscence, 1960, Victoria and Albert Museum


1960s glazed cotton, Design Collection at Bournemouth


Trouser dress, printed silk, Emilio Pucci, 1968, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 13: Marimekko: Design as a complete lifestyle






Marimekko’s iconic ‘Unikko’ pattern

Resources for studying Asian textiles - a bibliography

Resources

I'll be adding more all the time, so keep an eye on this page.  New additions will be marked with an asterisk.

Books:

Zhao, Feng. Treasures in Silk: An Illustrated History of Chinese Textiles.  Hong Kong: ISAT/Costume Squad Ltd, 1999

Menzies, Jackie and Judith Rutherford.  Celestial Silks: Chinese Religious and Court Textiles.  Sydney: Art Gallery of New South Wales, 2004

Jackson, Anna.  Japanese Textiles in the Victoria and Albert Museum.  London: Victoria and Albert Publications, 2000

Narasin, Rochelle M. and Sunny Yang.  Textile Art of Japan.  Tokyo: Shufunomoto Co. Ltd., 1998

Arthur, Liz and Nasreen Askari.  Uncut Cloth: Saris, Shawls and Sashes.  London: Merrell Holberton Publishers, 1999

Maxwell, Robyn.  Sari to Sarong: Five Hundred Years of Indian and Indonesian Textile Exchange.    Canberra: National Gallery of Australia, 2003

Crill, Rosemary (Ed.).  Textiles from India: The Global Trade.  Oxford: Seagull Books, 2006

Websites:

Metropolitan Museum of Art  

In particular see the Timeline of Art History and its Thematic Essays

Wikipedia 

Use with caution!  Look for proper citations in the articles, and go to the original source if at all possible!

Victoria and Albert Museum 

Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum 

Tokyo National Museum 

Te Papa: Collections Online

Reputable textile dealers:

Meg Andrews 

Japanese Textile Art

A embroidered rayon robe