Friday, October 9, 2009

Owen Jones on the internets

The Textile Blog has a fantastic write up on Owen Jones' writings on Pacific designs. Do check it out!

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Textile Design in the 20th Century: Design as Art

Slide 1: Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Bauhaus and Beyond...

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Slide 2: Arts and Crafts: design meets philosophy 1880-1910
Simplicity and honest use of materials negate historicism

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"Artichoke" wallpaper, by John Henry Dearle for William Morris & Co., circa 1897 (Victoria and Albert Museum).

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“Kennet” printed cotton, by William Morris, circa 1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 3: Art Nouveau
Characterised by highly-stylised, flowing, curvilinear designs often incorporating floral and other plant-inspired motifs.

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Slide 4: Art Nouveau in fashion

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Evening dress, silk, House of Worth, 1898-1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art


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Dress, silk crepe embroidered with silk floss and ribbon, Jeanne Hallée, 1907, Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Slide 5: Art Deco: Pure decoration, 1920-1939
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Furnishing fabric, F Gregory Brown, 1922, linen, Victoria and Albert Museum

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Printed silk-satin, Paul Poiret, 1911-1913, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 6: Art Deco in Fashion

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Cyclone Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1939, silk, spangles Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1924, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Fancy Dress Costume, 1911, Paul Poiret, Green silk gauze and gold lamé with blue foil appliqué and celluloid-bead embroidery, Metropolitan Museum of Ar

Slide 7: Bauhaus

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Textile sample, wool, silk, cotton, cellophane, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum

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Design for a tapestry, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum

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Tri-color arch, hemp and synthetic fibre, Claire Zeisler, 1983-1984, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 8: Rayon and the rise of synthetic fibres

1940 – Nylon used in stockings as a replacement for silk

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‘Utility’ dress, rayon, English, 1942, V and A

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Dress fabric, screen printed silk and rayon blend, French, 1937, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 9: WWII, Rationing and Austerity

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London Wall headscarf, printed rayon, Jacqmar, 1940s, Victoria and Albert Museum

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Original No. 16 suit, wool, Digby Morton, 1942, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 10: The New Look in fabrics


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Curtain, screen printed cotton crepe, Marian Mahler for David Whitehead Ltd, c. 1952, Victoria and Albert Museum

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New Look dress, silk grosgrain, Victor Steibel, 1947, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 11: 1950’s: Prosperity and abundance


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‘Lace’ printed cotton, 1950s, Design Collection at Bournemouth

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Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum

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Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 12: 1960s – Bright abstractions and ethnic inspiration


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Furnishing fabric, indigo-dyed and block printed cotton, Susan Boscence, 1960, Victoria and Albert Museum

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1960s glazed cotton, Design Collection at Bournemouth

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Trouser dress, printed silk, Emilio Pucci, 1968, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 13: Marimekko: Design as a complete lifestyle

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Marimekko’s iconic ‘Unikko’ pattern




Resources for studying Asian textiles - a bibliography

Resources

I'll be adding more all the time, so keep an eye on this page.  New additions will be marked with an asterisk.


Books:


Zhao, Feng. Treasures in Silk: An Illustrated History of Chinese Textiles.  Hong Kong: ISAT/Costume Squad Ltd, 1999


Menzies, Jackie and Judith Rutherford.  Celestial Silks: Chinese Religious and Court Textiles.  Sydney: Art Gallery of New South Wales, 2004


Jackson, Anna.  Japanese Textiles in the Victoria and Albert Museum.  London: Victoria and Albert Publications, 2000


Narasin, Rochelle M. and Sunny Yang.  Textile Art of Japan.  Tokyo: Shufunomoto Co. Ltd., 1998


Arthur, Liz and Nasreen Askari.  Uncut Cloth: Saris, Shawls and Sashes.  London: Merrell Holberton Publishers, 1999


Maxwell, Robyn.  Sari to Sarong: Five Hundred Years of Indian and Indonesian Textile Exchange.    Canberra: National Gallery of Australia, 2003


Crill, Rosemary (Ed.).  Textiles from India: The Global Trade.  Oxford: Seagull Books, 2006


Websites:


Metropolitan Museum of Art  

In particular see the Timeline of Art History and its Thematic Essays


Wikipedia 

Use with caution!  Look for proper citations in the articles, and go to the original source if at all possible!


Victoria and Albert Museum 


Cooper Hewitt National Design Museum 


Tokyo National Museum 


Te Papa: Collections Online


Reputable textile dealers:


Meg Andrews 


Japanese Textile Art