Textile Design in the 20th Century: Design as Art

Slide 1: Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Bauhaus and Beyond...







Slide 2: Arts and Crafts: design meets philosophy 1880-1910
Simplicity and honest use of materials negate historicism


"Artichoke" wallpaper, by John Henry Dearle for William Morris & Co., circa 1897 (Victoria and Albert Museum).


“Kennet” printed cotton, by William Morris, circa 1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 3: Art Nouveau
Characterised by highly-stylised, flowing, curvilinear designs often incorporating floral and other plant-inspired motifs.







Slide 4: Art Nouveau in fashion

Evening dress, silk, House of Worth, 1898-1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dress, silk crepe embroidered with silk floss and ribbon, Jeanne Hallée, 1907, Metropolitan Museum of Art



Slide 5: Art Deco: Pure decoration, 1920-1939

Furnishing fabric, F Gregory Brown, 1922, linen, Victoria and Albert Museum


Printed silk-satin, Paul Poiret, 1911-1913, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 6: Art Deco in Fashion


Cyclone Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1939, silk, spangles Metropolitan Museum of Art


Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1924, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art


Fancy Dress Costume, 1911, Paul Poiret, Green silk gauze and gold lamé with blue foil appliqué and celluloid-bead embroidery, Metropolitan Museum of Ar

Slide 7: Bauhaus


Textile sample, wool, silk, cotton, cellophane, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum


Design for a tapestry, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum


Tri-color arch, hemp and synthetic fibre, Claire Zeisler, 1983-1984, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 8: Rayon and the rise of synthetic fibres

1940 – Nylon used in stockings as a replacement for silk


‘Utility’ dress, rayon, English, 1942, V and A

Dress fabric, screen printed silk and rayon blend, French, 1937, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 9: WWII, Rationing and Austerity

London Wall headscarf, printed rayon, Jacqmar, 1940s, Victoria and Albert Museum


Original No. 16 suit, wool, Digby Morton, 1942, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 10: The New Look in fabrics


Curtain, screen printed cotton crepe, Marian Mahler for David Whitehead Ltd, c. 1952, Victoria and Albert Museum


New Look dress, silk grosgrain, Victor Steibel, 1947, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 11: 1950’s: Prosperity and abundance


‘Lace’ printed cotton, 1950s, Design Collection at Bournemouth


Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum


Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 12: 1960s – Bright abstractions and ethnic inspiration


Furnishing fabric, indigo-dyed and block printed cotton, Susan Boscence, 1960, Victoria and Albert Museum


1960s glazed cotton, Design Collection at Bournemouth


Trouser dress, printed silk, Emilio Pucci, 1968, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 13: Marimekko: Design as a complete lifestyle






Marimekko’s iconic ‘Unikko’ pattern