Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Textile Design in the 20th Century: Design as Art

Slide 1: Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Bauhaus and Beyond...

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Slide 2: Arts and Crafts: design meets philosophy 1880-1910
Simplicity and honest use of materials negate historicism

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"Artichoke" wallpaper, by John Henry Dearle for William Morris & Co., circa 1897 (Victoria and Albert Museum).

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“Kennet” printed cotton, by William Morris, circa 1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 3: Art Nouveau
Characterised by highly-stylised, flowing, curvilinear designs often incorporating floral and other plant-inspired motifs.

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Slide 4: Art Nouveau in fashion

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Evening dress, silk, House of Worth, 1898-1900, Metropolitan Museum of Art


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Dress, silk crepe embroidered with silk floss and ribbon, Jeanne Hallée, 1907, Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Slide 5: Art Deco: Pure decoration, 1920-1939
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Furnishing fabric, F Gregory Brown, 1922, linen, Victoria and Albert Museum

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Printed silk-satin, Paul Poiret, 1911-1913, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 6: Art Deco in Fashion

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Cyclone Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1939, silk, spangles Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Dress, House of Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin), 1924, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Fancy Dress Costume, 1911, Paul Poiret, Green silk gauze and gold lamé with blue foil appliqué and celluloid-bead embroidery, Metropolitan Museum of Ar

Slide 7: Bauhaus

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Textile sample, wool, silk, cotton, cellophane, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum

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Design for a tapestry, Gunta Stölzl, 1927, V&A Museum

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Tri-color arch, hemp and synthetic fibre, Claire Zeisler, 1983-1984, silk, wool, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Slide 8: Rayon and the rise of synthetic fibres

1940 – Nylon used in stockings as a replacement for silk

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‘Utility’ dress, rayon, English, 1942, V and A

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Dress fabric, screen printed silk and rayon blend, French, 1937, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 9: WWII, Rationing and Austerity

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London Wall headscarf, printed rayon, Jacqmar, 1940s, Victoria and Albert Museum

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Original No. 16 suit, wool, Digby Morton, 1942, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 10: The New Look in fabrics


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Curtain, screen printed cotton crepe, Marian Mahler for David Whitehead Ltd, c. 1952, Victoria and Albert Museum

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New Look dress, silk grosgrain, Victor Steibel, 1947, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 11: 1950’s: Prosperity and abundance


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‘Lace’ printed cotton, 1950s, Design Collection at Bournemouth

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Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum

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Evening dress, silk organsa, Jacques Heim/Juenes Filles, 1959, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 12: 1960s – Bright abstractions and ethnic inspiration


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Furnishing fabric, indigo-dyed and block printed cotton, Susan Boscence, 1960, Victoria and Albert Museum

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1960s glazed cotton, Design Collection at Bournemouth

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Trouser dress, printed silk, Emilio Pucci, 1968, Victoria and Albert Museum

Slide 13: Marimekko: Design as a complete lifestyle

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Marimekko’s iconic ‘Unikko’ pattern




4 comments:

  1. So much gorgeousness! I'm overwhelmed!

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  2. oooooh, that wartime scarf is unbelievably awesome!

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  3. That Gregory F Brown desgned for William Foxton 1922 is copied in vogue patterns V 1190
    http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1190-products-11328.php?page_id=939

    ReplyDelete